I-Dani García sierra izokhoseliswa ama-Tragabuches, umsuka wokudla kwakho kwendabuko

JJ Madueno

U-Dani García wabona imvelaphi. Umpheki ovela eMarbella uzophatha iTragabuches, ethwebula indawo yokudlela eyamnika umyalo wekhishi okokuqala ngqa ngo-1998. Izidlo zakusihlwa ezingama-200 endaweni yomndeni, lapho kukhona ngisho nomtapo wezincwadi wamathoyizi wezingane. Ingenye yezinselelo afuna ngazo ukubuyisa ubunjalo bakhe. I-cuisine yendabuko yase-Andalusian. "Ngikhumbula kahle. Kusukela ngo-2005 kunezinto ezingezinhle. I-Manzanilla Jacket ikhona ukuze ububi bungakhohlwa,” ekhumbula eseWorkshop.

E-Tragabuches wathola inkanyezi yakhe yokuqala ye-Michelin eneminyaka engu-24.

Isitofu saso asikhumbula kahle, ngemva kokuba umpheki wamazwe ngamazwe. Manje lowo mqondo we-gastronomic uzotholakala. Umbono uthi iphume ngoJulayi. "Kuzobuyela ekuphekeni, enhlanzi, inyama, imifino kanye nemikhiqizo yasendaweni enezinkampani zalapha," kusho uDani García. Imenyu enesitshulu se-Ronda, ukolweni oyisitshulu nejuba, ingulube yase-Iberia ijowl nge-carabineros… Izitsha eziphakamise leyo ndlu yokudlela e-Ronda. “Indawo yokudlela ephambili yendabuko yase-Andalusi. Tragabuches njengoba kwakucatshangwa ngaleso sikhathi,” kusho umpheki.

U-Dani García wethula izindaba zeqembu.U-Dani García wethula izindaba zeqembu. -MDD

Futhi kulokho wengeza sonke isisindo seminyaka yakhe ekhishini. I-Babette isivuliwe. Indawo yokudlela yesiNgisi enomongo wase-Andalusi, lapho kutholakala khona ezinye zezinto engizenzile ngesikhathi ngifunda e-La Consula. “Isikhathi esedlule yikusasa elisha. Ukuziphendukela kwemvelo kukaBibo. Sezikhona izigidi zezindawo ezenza lolo hlobo lokudla futhi besifuna okunye okunye”, wachaza ngaphambi kokuthi “izindawo zokudlela ezintsha 'ziyi-clubbing'”. "Esikhundleni se-champagne nama-sparklers, i-D'Yquem kwamanye ama-oyster," uyanezela.

Ibuyela ekuqaleni, ezitsheni ezinganakekelwa kangako. Kumaresiphi alahlekile. “Ezinye izinso ezinesherry noma izibindi ezino-anyanisi yinto ekhunjulwa yiwo wonke umuntu, kodwa lokho sekuvele kulahlekile. I-wellington, i-hake ene-champagne noma ama-artichokes ane-ham… Kuyisiko, kodwa kunikela ngombono wethu”, kuphawula u-Dani García.

I-Tragabuches ingenye yezinto ezintsha ezinhle zesikhathi esizayoI-Tragabuches ingenye yezinto ezintsha ezinhle zesikhathi esizayo - JJ MADUEÑO

Izindawo zokudlela ezimbili ezizoba ne-Marbella njengendawo yokuqala, ukuze zinwetshwe kamuva. “UTragabuches uya eMadrid,” kuchaza umpheki. Iqembu likaDani García liyashintsha njalo. Inguquko oyibonayo kanye nakumavidiyo ezethulo, manje angesiNgisi kubatshalizimali bakho bamazwe ngamazwe. "Sifuna ukuba yiqembu elinamandla emhlabeni jikelele le-gastronomic," uyavuma. Kulokhu, i-Marbella iyibhentshi lokuhlola eliyinhloko. “Ngumshayeli wendiza yakho konke, ngaphandle kwe-Smoke Room, okuthe uma lifika ngemuva konyaka ngabe selikhona nalo,” kusho umpheki oqinisekise ukuthi imali etshalwa kwabezindaba kule ndawo yokudlela iyizigidi zama-euro.

NgoTragabuches noBabette kunemiqondo emine esizophephela eMarbella. E-cuisine ye-Essence yase-Andalusian kukhona indawo yokudlela yase-Italy ngaphansi kwegama lika-Alelí. Kuyiphrojekthi eyazalwa ngo-2016, kodwa izobona ukukhanya ngoJuni ePuente Romano. “Iqembu akuyena uDani García. Indawo yokudlela yase-Italy siqasha ochwepheshe base-Italy. Yizona ezisenza sibe ngabakhulu kulelo khishi. Angifuni ukuthi yonke into yenziwe ibe ngeyakho. Bangu-1.400 XNUMX abantu abasebenza lapha,” kusho uGarcía, othi ubalekela ukuzikhukhumeza ukuze anikeze ikhwalithi eyengeziwe. "Sifuna indawo yokudlela yase-Italy isebenze futhi ipheke amaNtaliyane," uyanezela.

Endaweni efanayo, kodwa njengendawo yokudlela ehlukile, kuzoba ne-Kemuri, okuyindawo yokudlela yaseJapan ene-sushi. “Angikwazi ukwenza isiJapane ngaphandle kwenhlanzi eluhlaza. Yikhishi engilithanda kakhulu emhlabeni wonke ngenxa yokuphelela kwalo. Kunzima kakhulu ukuletha abapheki baseJapane, kodwa umbono uyafana noka-Alelí”, kwengeza u-García, olichaza njengeGumbi Lentuthu -indawo yokudlela enezinkanyezi ezimbili eMadrid–, kodwa isiJapane. “Akuhlangene noNobu. Kuyinto yethu", ugomela ngenkathi ethi umqondo wukuthi uBibo uzovula kabusha ePuente Romano ngoNovemba.

I-Marbella iwumbhede wokuhlola imiqondo yeqembu le-gastronomic.I-Marbella iwumbhede wokuhlola imiqondo yeqembu le-gastronomic. – DG GROUP

Futhi ukusuka eMarbella kuye emhlabeni, njengoba iphosta iqembu elinalo ePuerto Banus lisho. Umgomo uwukuba u-2022 aphele ngezindawo zokudlela ezingaphezu kuka-20 emhlabeni jikelele. “Ucabanga ukuthi i-gastronomy ibaluleke kakhulu kunokugxila ekuphekeni kwe-haute. Angiphikisani ne-haute cuisine, kodwa kukhona okunye", kuchaza uGarcía, oveza ukuthi ukuze "uxhumane noquqaba" kukhona iphrojekthi yokufisa ehlanganisa ukuvulwa kweLeña eDubai naseMiami, lapho uBibo kulindeleke ukuthi vulwe kanye ne-Lobito de Mar. Inzuzo manje ukuthi bangaletha imikhiqizo emisha ezindaweni lapho benezindawo zokudlela ezivela e-Spain. Lokhu kusiza ukukhishwa kwemiqondo.

Ngaphezu kwalokho, yiBlue Room ezomisa izindawo zase-Europe. Okokuqala eParis, lapho ihlose ukuvulwa khona ngo-Okthoba. Khona-ke e-Amsterdam, ngoba ozakwethu baseParis banehhotela lapho futhi bafuna ukwenza umqondo ofanayo. Ukuvuma ngekhanda ku-Picasso ukuze afike e-France nge-cuisine yase-Spanish enomongo omsulwa we-Andalusian. “Umuzwa abantu abanawo ngaphandle kwe-Spanish gastronomy unginika isibindi. Makacabange ukuthi kuyinto eshibhile nokuthi kukhona i-gazpacho noma i-paella kuphela. I-New York Times ibeke i-Casa Dani njengendawo yokugcina iminyuziyamu ye-tuna futhi kwakukhona abantu ababengazi nokuthi iSpain yayine-tuna enhle ye-bluefin. Sifuna ukufundisa lokho,” kusho umpheki.

UGarcia unethemba lokuqeda u-2022 ngezindawo zokudlela ezingaphezu kwama-20 emhlabeni jikelele.UGarcia unethemba lokuqeda u-2022 ngezindawo zokudlela ezingaphezu kwama-20 emhlabeni jikelele. – DG GROUP

Umbuso osuka eQatar uye e-United States, udlula eSaudi Arabia, Dubai, London, Paris, Amsterdam, Marbella, Ibiza, Madrid, Tarifa futhi manje eBudapest, lapho ukwehla kumisiwe nayo yonke iphothifoliyo iqembu elinalo. Ngakho-ke, inzuzo izofinyelela kuma-euro ayizigidi ezingama-47 kulo nyaka ezindaweni zokudlela eziphethwe ngokwazo. Ngaphandle kwe-La Gran Familia Mediterránea, esivele inamakhishi angaphezu kwamashumi amabili futhi isebenza njengenkampani yezobuchwepheshe.