Belgrade ndi mzinda wokhala ndi zipsera ndi zipsera. Mlungu watha - mwatsoka - adabwerera ku tsamba loyamba la kuwombera pasukulu yomwe, pamodzi ndi yachiwiri mumzinda wina, imatipangitsa kuganiziranso za cholowa chapafupi cha Serbia. Pali vuto lamfuti. Apanso dziko la catharsis. Belgrade yomwe imayenda mozungulira mzimu wake ('duša').
Mbiri ndi zowonetsa zimatsata mapu amalingaliro omwe sanamvetsetsedwe bwino kwa mlendo woyambitsa, ena okhala ndi ma airs of cliché, wamanyazi pa nthawi yofika ndi woyenda pansi Knez Mihailova: hermetic, osamvetsetseka, nkhanza zomanga, konkire, Marshal Tito, zipinda zapansi za Emir Kusturica (NATO bowas).
Ndi ku linga la Kalemegdan komwe 'White City' imapeza tanthauzo lake. Tinalowa pachipata cha Istanbul. Europe? oriented? Panja basketball ndi tennis makhoti, asilikali Museum, ina ya mazunzo, mapanga, minda, zoo, manda a ngwazi dziko ndi kufesa kupsompsona kwa Danube ndi Sava mitsinje kumene lopeka linga akukhala. Patali, phokoso la mabwato a 'disco'… chifukwa Belgrade -yomwe Madrid inali zaka makumi asanu ndi atatu kapena pambuyo pa mliri - imakhalanso usiku.
Kuchokera ku Aroma ('Singidunum') kupita ku Turk ('Kale' ndi linga ndi 'Meydan', malo omenyera nkhondo) kapena Milosevic watsoka, likulu la Aserbia, adakhazikika pankhondoyi. adzakumana nazo. malire. Panthaŵi imeneyi ndi pamene anatsekereza moyo wake chifukwa chakuti, monga momwe katswiri wa Balkanologist, Miguel Roán, womasulira ndi wofufuza alongosolera, “ku Belgrade n’kovuta kumvetsa. Ndi mzimu wokayika, wosakhazikika komanso wosakhazikika. ”
Chipata cha Istanbul chomwe chinali ku Republic Square, chinagwetsedwa m'zaka za zana la XNUMX ABC
Kuyankha mafunso a mzinda uno womwe zidalembedwa pang'ono m'Chisipanishi - komanso kuchokera ku Spanish - ndicho cholinga cha wolemba uyu wochokera ku Vigo, wokhala ku Belgrade mpaka 2018, yemwe adafotokoza kale m'mabuku ake am'mbuyomu 'Balkan Marathon' ndi 'Balkanisms' kuwala kwa X-ray kumbuyo kwa dera lofufutika lofufutika. Nthawi zonse ndi nkhani yaumunthu ngati msana.
Tsopano ku 'Gross Belgrade. Intimate Chronicle of the White City '(Báltica Editorial) imatitengera popanda mawu oyamba kupita ku "mzinda womwe umathaŵa zachiphamaso, zomwe zimatipempha kuti tifufuze zosaoneka komanso zomwe zikujambula chifukwa zimapereka chithunzithunzi kuti sichidziwika bwino" .
Kupyolera mu nkhani zazifupi makumi atatu, amatsata owerenga njira ya mitundu yolemera ya 'Belgradan': osewera mpira wa basketball monga osamalira ulemu, jazi monga kutsegulidwa kwa ulamuliro wa Tito, kukongola kwa konkire ndi sukulu yake yomangamanga, zokambirana mu 'kafanas' yake, kuphulika kwa Atlantic Alliance, hotelo ya Yugoslavia, kumwetulira kwa Russia, chipata cha pux ku Ulaya, chipembedzo cha pux ...
Zomangamanga brutalism
"Zomangamanga izi zopangidwa ndi mulungu zidasandulika kukhala wosewera wa Tetris, zomwe zikusemphana ndi mfundo zomveka"
M'buku laposachedwa ili, Roán akufotokoza momveka bwino za pensulo ndi akatswiri omanga 21 a ku Belgrade: "Ndimakonda nthawi zawo ndi ma cadences, ndi chikhalidwe cha masitepe ndi khofi, kuyenda m'mphepete mwa Sava kapena ku Danube, misonkhano m'nyumba, khalani pansi ndi 'pljeskavica' pa benchi yamsewu, mudzasiyidwa kuti mukumane popanda nyuzipepala kapena makalendala pakati. ndizotsutsana ndi moyo womwe timakhala, wachangu, waposachedwa, wopanda umunthu, ngakhale mzindawu ukupitanso mbali imeneyo ", akufotokoza Balkanologist uyu yemwe adaponyedwanso kudziko la semina ya "paintaneti" yachikhalidwe (yotsatira imodzi akupereka mgwirizano ndi 'Bridge on the Drina' lolemba Ivo Andric ndi 'The Fortress' lolemba Meša Selimovic).
Cinema ndi chizindikiro china chodziwika mu 'Belgrado brut': 'Underground' lolemba Kusturica, 'Cabaret Balkan' lolemba Paskaljević kapena 'Ulysses' kuyang'ana' ndi Greek Angelópoulos ndi zina mwazinthu zina zomwe zimatifikitsa ku mythomania ya Belgrade.
Belgrade ndi chizindikiro cha zomangamanga. Kuchokera ku linga lake lakale, mpaka kudera la Austro-Hungary ndikudutsa m'modzi mwa "leitmotivs" yayikulu ya bukhuli: nkhanza za zomangamanga zidawonekera pambuyo pa Nkhondo Yachiwiri Yapadziko Lonse, pakati pa mpikisano womanganso. Konkire kumbali zonse zinayi. Ku Belgrade, nyumba ya 'Toblerone' kapena Genex Tower (West Gate) ndi omwe amatsimikizira izi.
Roán analemba kuti: “Kamangidwe kameneka kanapangidwa kuti kakhale mulungu wosanduka wosewera mpira wa Tetris, ndipo amatsutsana ndi mfundo zokhazikika zoti mfundo ziwiri zikatsutsidwa, limodzi silingakhale loona.
Usiku ku Belgrade
M'gawoli, mupeza m'masamba a laibulale zokumana nazo za katswiri wa zomangamanga waku Swiss Le Corbusier yemwe ananena molakwika kuti "Belgrade ndiye mzinda woyipa kwambiri pamalo okongola kwambiri" m'mawu a 'zakudya zofulumira alendo'. Ndipo ndi gawo la chizindikirocho, ndizowona kuti Belgrade idatsalira… mzinda woyipa, wotuwa. Chinachake chotalikirana ndi chenicheni.
Usiku ukugwa mumzinda woyera ndi malo ake odyera ofunikira m'malo ochitirako konsati. Movida adachokapo. Belgrade mwina ndiye malo opulumukirako 'kumapeto kwa sabata' ku Europe nthawi yathu ino. Chifukwa chiyani Paris, Berlin kapena London, ngati tikadali ndi Belgrade yosadziwika? Pomaliza tinayandikira mtsinje wa Sava. Kwa imodzi mwa 'splav' (disco-pier) yomwe imazungulira magombe ake. Kumbuyo, pamwamba, Kalemegdan. mtetezi wamkulu wa mzinda amene cyclically akuganizanso.
