Kwasa imini kwikomkhulu kuphela, nangona sele nemvakalelo yokuba ekwindla emasangweni, yiyo loo nto kuthatha umzamo omkhulu wengqondo ukuze sizibone elunxwemeni, ukutshisa ilanga, unxibe izindululo ukuba abayili musa ukuzisa kule yesibini. Usuku lwendlela yefashoni yaseMadrid iVeki yeMfashini yeMercedes Benz kwipavilion 14 ye-Ifema fairgrounds. Sikwamkele ngakumbi ukuxabisa ifashoni yasekwindla-ebusika kuneesuti zokuqubha eziqukuqelayo kunye neelokhwe. Nangona kunjalo, i-catwalk ingunyaka ongaphambili kwaye ngoku isinika iindaba zentwasahlobo-ehlobo lika-2023. Undithemba kangakanani!, Yintoni uDon Quixote angayithetha kwi-squire yakhe ethembekileyo.
Kodwa njengoko ngaphakathi kwi-catwalk akukho mini okanye ubusuku, nabusika okanye ihlobo, kukho izindululo ezilungileyo ezivezwa ngabayili bethu ababalaseleyo, sivumela ukuba sikhokelwe sisandla sikaDolorés Cortes ukuya kumanxweme ambone ekhula, unxweme lwaseLevantine. . Ikhuthazwe bubugcisa be-Bauhaus, ngokukodwa 'imizobo yelaphu' yegcisa u-Anni Albers, ingqokelela ye-discursive ngemibala eqaqambileyo, indibaniselwano emnyama namhlophe kunye nee-crochet ezininzi ezenziwe ngesandla.
Umyili uwazi kakuhle umsebenzi weempahla zokuqubha kwaye ubonakalise oku ngezindululo zakhe ezimibalabala. “Ingqokelela ineempahla zokuqubha, iibhikini kunye ne-triquinis ngokufanayo, nangona iimpahla zokuqubha zinomtsalane ngakumbi kwi-catwalk, zintle ngakumbi,” umyili wethu wavuma oko phambi komboniso. “Ndifuna kubonakale iipritas zamagumbi okuhlambela, andifuni kuzigquma – wongeza-, nangona ndizidibanisa nayo yonke into esiyithengisayo, enje ngeekaftans, ilokhwe, kwaye, kwesi sihlandlo, iitshefu” . I-panty-thong, ethi kulo nyaka ithathe indawo yokuqubha kunye neelwandle, iqhubekile kunyaka ozayo. Ukunxitywa yimodeli egobileyo kusibonisa ukuba ifashoni yakhe yeyemizimba yonke.
Into ehlala ibeka le nkampani kwi-catwalks yi-crochet bikinis, nangona, njengoko icacisa, zenziwe kwi-workshop yethu ngendlela yendabuko kunye nentambo ye-elastic lycra, engekho nzima kwaye ihambelana ngokugqibeleleyo kwi-silhouette yabasetyhini. Mhle ngenene.
Ukwandisa
UBelén Esteban, kwisikhumba seDolores Cortés De San Bernardo
Kucingelwa ukuba xa kuqhutywa umngcelele wokuqala kusasa, 'uluhlu lwangaphambili' (uluhlu lokuqala lweendwendwe) alunamphefumlo wobuso obuqhelekileyo, njengoko kwakunjalo, ngaphandle kukaBelén Esteban, kodwa mfiliba kancinci .
Ngaphandle kwento yokuba i-ajenda yabayili ekufuneka siyibonise kolu hlelo e-Ifema ine-decaffeinated kakhulu kuneentlelo zangaphambili, ngokungabikho okukhulu, sibone ubuso obuqhelekileyo izolo. Ndiyathemba ukuba namhlanje ubuyile kwaye siphila usuku olufana nolo lwangaphambili, kunye neCibelespacio (inani lokusingqongileyo lomboniso wefashoni obamba iindawo zokuzenzela, iimagazini kunye nabayili abasakhulayo) kunye nomoya, uninzi lwabaphulaphuli kwiindawo zokuma jonga imingcelele kunye nomoya kwi-'backstage'. Le catwalk idinga indawo yefresco, kodwa kukho isifo esihlala kuyo esenza ukuba iphele emva koshicilelo. Qwalasela umzamo omkhulu ovela eMadrid es Moda ukuze kubanjwe imingcelele kwiindawo ezifuziselayo zesixeko, into exhaswa liBhunga lesiXeko kunye noLuntu lwaseMadrid, kusekuninzi ekufuneka kwenziwe ukuze iVeki yeFashoni yaseMadrid ibe nendawo ekuyo. enkosi phakathi kwabangcono kwihlabathi.
isabel sanchis
Lithuba lika-Isabel Sanchís, naye ovela eValencia, othi, kunye nentombi yakhe uPaula, abonise ingqokelela yakhe yesihlanu eMadrid. Kwaye i-vulven ibonise ukuba iyayazi indlela yokwenza i-pritas yabasetyhini kunye ne-augments. Umbono wabo kukwenza amabhaso asondele kwi-haute couture kune-prêt-à-porter, amabhaso anyamezelayo kwi-wardrobe yesizini emva kwesizini. Lutshintsho lwengqondo ekufuneka siqalise ukuziqhelanisa ngakumbi, ukulungiselela okusingqongileyo kunye nepokotho. Kodwa kukho iingcebiso zokulungele ukunxiba phakathi kweelokhwe zepati eziqaqambileyo. Iibhrashi zakhe ezithi, njengoko bezivuma kuthi ngasemva, “zitsalwa zithengiswa, kwaye ndiyakuthanda ukuzenza”. Kanye njengokuba bevuma kuthi ukuba imarike yabo yamazwe ngamazwe iyakhula, ngakumbi eMelika naseAsia.
Ngeempawu zayo ezikhoyo, iintyatyambo kunye nemiqulu, ukuthunga kwe-satin kunye nemihlobiso ye-plume kwakuyi-protagonist, kodwa ngaphandle kokuyeka ukuvuselela kunye nokwazisa i-pritas eyenziwe nge-laser-cut neoprene okanye i-satin ye-liquid epleated. Ubukhazikhazi akufuneki buchasane nenkqubela phambili.
Hannibal Laguna
Kwaye ukusuka kwiingubo zebhotwe ukuya kwiingubo zentsomi ezifana nezo zicetywa nguHannibal Laguna. Kukho ingqokelela eyomeleleyo ecebisa 'Izibane zasentwasahlobo', ukuzalwa ngokutsha kwentwasahlobo. Ndiyathemba ukuba uya kuxinga kwiihlumelo zakho eziluhlaza ukuba asiqhubele ngeelokhwe zakhe kwimihla ngemihla yomntu wonke. Ukudityaniswa kweelokhwe zothando kunye nabanye ezilula ngenkangeleko kodwa zihonjiswe ngemiqulu.
Ugxininiso lwakhe olukhulu lokudala lwalukwii-cuffs, ezinqeni, apho intambo ingumhlobiso, kunye neentambo ezibanzi. Igqamisa njengesiqhelo, eqhubeka unyaka omtsha, imikhono ekhukhumeleyo kunye neengubo. Konke kumalaphu, kunokuba njani ngenye indlela kule nkampani, isilika yendalo efana nemikados, muslin, crepe kunye ne-organza.
Iisilhouette ezikhazimlayo, i-bustiers, ihempe ye-tulle, iziketi ezibanzi kakhulu ezinemingxuma kunye neelokhwe ezijikelezayo zenza ukuba uluntu lwenyongo luyonwabele i-brand eguquguqukayo kwaye ihlala intle.
UDuarte
Ukulibaziseka kubangele utshintsho lwerejista, nangona ithoni yomoya omncinci ngokubanzi, ngaphandle nangaphakathi kwe-catwalk. Ukusuka kweyona fashoni yabasetyhini, siqhubela phambili kwingqokelela 'enomngcipheko' womyili uCarlos Duarte. Iqoqo lamadoda nabasetyhini, kwiindawo ezilinganayo, apho indoda yaseMadrid yayifuna ukuphula iirekhodi zayo zangaphambili zokuthunga iiklasi.
Ingqokelela, ngamazwi omyili, i-ode kumbala, iphefumlelwe yimizobo ye-post-impressionist. I-silhouettes ekhululekile ngakumbi kuneentlelo zangaphambili, nangona umthamo. I-denim kunye nelinen yokuthunga kunye ne-knitwear kunye ne-silk muslin kwiingubo, ezithi, njengoko kuhlelo lwangaphambili, zibuyele kwi-catwalk.
Alvaro Calafat
Besifuna ukubona umyili omncinci waseMalaga u-Álvaro Calafat parade. Emva kweentlelo ezimbini kwi-080 e-Barcelona, unyathela kwinqanaba laseMadrid ngokugqibeleleyo kwaye ngaphandle kwesiqingatha semilinganiselo. Njengoko besitshilo ngaphambi komboniso: “Akathandi ukungaphawulwa. Oh uyandithanda okanye uyandicaphukela. Ndifike ndifuna ukwenza ingxolo, ukuze ivuke le catwalk, kuba bendisoloko ndibukele kwaye ndicinga ukuba iswele umoya omtsha, ukuvuka, ukuba i numb”. Awunakulunga ngakumbi.
Le ngqokelela yesithathu kunye neyokuqala kwi-MBFWM ibizwa ngokuba yi "3LeMorte" kwaye yazalwa emva kokusweleka komhlobo olungileyo. Iziqwenga zakhe zesitayile soyilo esiphawulweyo, esiphenjelelwe luhambo olwalandelayo lokuya eIndiya kwaye wachukunyiswa ziitempile zayo. “Ndifuna ukufunda ngoyilo lwezakhiwo, ndiqala unyaka wokuqala ngoku-usixelela ukuba uyahlekisa-, yiyo loo nto ukuzimisela kwam kwiingqokelela zam zoyilo lwepritas. Kwaye oko kukubonakalisa iimvakalelo zam. Kulapho bazalelwa khona." Kodwa ukulinganisa ezi zakhiwo zoyilo, kwakukho izindululo ezivuselela inkanuko.
UTeresa Helbig
Phambi kwetheko lokugqibela apho uAgatha Ruiz de la Prada ongadinwayo ehlala efuna iiparades zakhe kwaye ngesi sihlandlo evala uhlelo, sibe nolonwabo lokuphinda sicinge ngendalo yomyili kunye notitshala uTeresa Helbig. Isifundo esitsha malunga nokuba yeyiphi ifashoni ezinzileyo, ezindlebeni zakhe ayikho ifashoni yanamhlanje ekhawulezayo, ziyi-pritas ubomi. Kwaye abona bafazi babalaseleyo kweli lizwe banxibe 'i-helbig', kwaye ukuba abayinxibanga, abekho kuluhlu lwezona zinto zintle.
Izinxibo zejuweli ngendlela azithanda ngayo: zigqibelele. Awunakuze uwubone umsonto ojikelezayo. “Umama, endawufunda kuye lo msebenzi wobugcisa, wayevuma,” usoloko egqabaza. Ukungaphumli, ukuzonwabisa, imibhiyozo, yindlela ayiyo kwaye yindlela ingqokelela yakhe, ehlawula imbeko kumanani amakhulu omculo. Kwaye yintoni engcono kwi-ode kwiminyhadala kunokuba neLuz Casal kubaphulaphuli
Isikhumba, i-lace ye-cotton, i-silk gauze kunye ne-gold trim. Imiboniso yethu enye yeelokhwe zakhe, i-backstage, ethi "sisipho sam kuPaco Rabanne". I-polychrome yeziphakamiso zakhe zivela kwikamela, ukuya kumhlophe, i-poppy ebomvu, i-blue blue, i-jet emnyama kunye negolide. Kwiindawo ezingama-34 zokuphuma, zonke zixhaswe ngeebhutsi 'zelizwe' ezinde, bakhwankqisa isihlwele esasizele i-catwalk. Njengoko bekutshiwo, impatho.
Njengemihombiso, iintsiba kunye 'namehlo' amakhulu, ezithi kumyili zibe ziifestile ezivuleleke kwihlabathi.
