Ndiri muArgentina, kukudzwa kukuru

Ndinowirirana zvikuru nevaArgentina, pasinei nokuti muLatin America vane mukurumbira wokuva vanofamba-famba, vanozvitutumadza, vanozvikudza, nokuda kwokutarisira pasi vamwe vedu, nokuda kwokusanzwa Latin America, asi vokuEurope. Buenos Aires, kunyangwe zvichirwadza ivo vanozvifunga vekuLatin America vane phobia yezvese zvemuArgentina (kureva kuti, phobia yanguwo, nekuti ndiri muArgentina nechisarudzo chepfungwa uye nerukudzo rukuru, American nekureruka uye Peruvia nemhuri). , ndiro guta reEurope kupfuura Latin America. Kufanana nemaguta makuru eEurope, chimwe chinhu chakaitika kuBuenos Aires mumakumi emakore achangopfuura izvo zvisina kuita kuti irasikirwe nekubwinya kwayo kunopenya, asi yakapa iyo imwe njodzi, yakavanzika njodzi, kuputika uye kurwara: raimbove guta rakanaka reFrenchified. , zvino razova guta rine bongozozo, Latin America, Third World, rakavhenganiswa nemestizo yose neropa rehasha renyika ino.

Nenzira imwecheteyo iyo muSantiago de Chile kune chiuru chevashandi vePeruvia, veVenezuelan neBolivia vane mukurumbira wekuve mbavha (uye vakadzi vePeruvia vane mukurumbira wokuva vananani vakanaka uye vabiki), muBuenos Aires pachava nezwi rinorarama, hodgepodge inonakidza yevafambi vekuEurope neBolivia vanofamba vasina mapepa, vashanyi vekuAustralia neveVenezuela pamidhudhudhu uye vachipesana nemabasa, vekuCanada mukutsinhana kwevadzidzi, vePeruvia mukutsinhana rudo, vakanatswa ngochani dzechiDutch neCentral America dzisina peni rakapukunyuka kubva kune imwe gehena kuti vanzwe vakasununguka mu guta guru rino uye inzwa wakasununguka nekusazvibata kukuru.

Nekuti Buenos Aires, ine mazuva akavhiringika ekuratidzira kwezuva nezuva uye kufora kunotyisa, nevapengo vayo vanorangana kukanganisa mugwagwa pasina mapurisa ari kuita chero chinhu uye vachivatarisa nekusakendenga kushamwaridzana, rinoramba riri guta rinonakidza kwazvo muLatin America, uye zvakare yakanyanya kuEurope uye yechitatu nyika. Mariri vanopona tsika dzakanaka dzeavo vanovanza mari yavo yemazana emakore mhiri kwerwizi, kana Ocean, idzo mhuri dzakasarudzika dzeRecoleta naPalermo, Martínez naSan Isidro, Nordelta nePuerto Madero, uye nharaunda dzakavharwa. yePilar nenzvimbo dzakatenderedza, avo zvino vanofanirwa kugarisana (zvakashata) netsika dzevapambi uye dzechinyakare dzevapambi, vapambi, vakadzingwa uye vakatorerwa nhaka yenyika ino, vakapinda nechisimba mumapaki avo pakupera kwevhiki: maBolivia neveVenezuelan, the VaParaguay nevaPeruvia, vaEcuador nevaColombia, vazhinji vavo vanogara vakatsvikinyidzana mumakamuri maduku, asi havana hanya, kana kuti vane hanya zvishoma, nokuti, zvinhu zvose zvinorangarirwa, havagari mudzimba idzodzo dzakasakara, havangorari imomo. vakaungana semombe dzakatakura. Vanogona kunge vachinzwa (uye ndicho chikonzero vanosarudza kugara, vanozvikudza) kuti vanogara muguta guru uye risinganzwisisike reBuenos Aires, uye kwete zvachose mugomba reEleven rinonhuwa, uye kwete mumusha weshantytown unotongwa nePeruvian drug boss kana. Colombian, uye kuti Buenos Aires, zvirokwazvo, iguta guru, risingaperi rinokurudzira, rakashata, rakanaka uye rinotyisa kupfuura chero ipi zvayo yemaguta anosuruvarisa akashata kwavakapukunyuka neushingi hunoyemurika, nokuti varombo vanobva kune dzimwe nyika ndivo magamba makuru asinganzwisisi enguva yedu. , varoti vakuru, vakundi vakuru, avo vanoisa zvose pangozi muhuwandu hwekusununguka.

Usataure zvakaipa nezvevaArgentina kana Argentina kana Buenos Aires nekukurumidza, sekunge Mendoza kana Rosario kana Córdoba vaive nani pane masikirwo eBuenos Aires pamahombekombe erwizi rwebrown: usanditsamwisa nevhesi diki iro, kuti maArgentina, vanhu vomunyika yangu sekufunga kwangu (kunyangwe parizvino ndisina pasipoti yekuArgentina, kadhi reunhengo mukirabhu yakavhurika yevapengo vanonyanyisa), dzinenge dzese dzinosetsa, dzinoshamisa, dzinoshamisa, dzinoyevedza, vanenge vese vanondifarira nyangwe vandisingade vanopedzisira vandifarira nekuti vanoita kunge zvisikwa zvisingaite sezvavari kunyora handizivi kuti ndiri kuzvitsanangura here , zvinoratidzika kwandiri kuti vanenge vese vanopenga, asi havazvizivi kana kuti vanozvivanza Zvakanaka, sevatambi vakuru veamateur, kunewo avo vanofunga kuti vane njere, uye vanopfuura, vakachenjera, uye nezvimwe. kupfuura kungwara, kupenya, kugadzira, kugona hunyanzvi, kupenya kusingaite.

Vanozvidza maArgentina vanotaura zvakawanda uye vanozvipa mweya wekuziva-izvo-zvose. Zvakanaka, ndizvo chaizvo zvinondifadza pamusoro pavo: kuvateerera vachitaura kutaura kwavo, mavhesi avo, manyepo avo, misungo yavo inopokana, nekuti maArgentina anonakidza anenge anogara achireva nhema, vanobiridzira zvakanyanya, vanyengeri zvakanyanya, ndivo avo vandinoda zvirinani uye avo vandinova shamwari nyore nyore, mudiwa, mukweretesi kana nhengo yechikwata. Ndiani aisaziva kuti shamwari yepamoyo munyika inogara iri muArgentina haazive Argentina zvachose.

Wese muArgentina ndiye murairidzi wechikwata chenhabvu chenyika (uye, kana vakamurega, zvakare wechikwata cheSpanish). Wese muArgentina ndiye mutungamiri wehupenyu hwenyika yake (uye, kana vakamurega, maboss eCuba neVenezuela futi). Wese muArgentina ane hurongwa hwakakwana hwekuti United States ibude mudambudziko rekukwira kwemitengo yakakwira, kudzikira kuri kuuya uye kuparara kwemusika wemasheya (uye, kana vakadaro, kuti nyika yese ibude mudambudziko, uye kuti Ukraine ibude. kurova iyo hondo yekurwisana neRussia, zvichida ukataura naye nezveMiddle East, zvinhu hazvina kunyatsojeka kwaari, asi kamwe chete mutyairi wetekisi wekuArgentina akandivimbisa kuti akanga asangana naBin Laden, kuti Bin Laden akanga ari pasi pePeronist, kuti vakanga vari shamwari dzakanaka uye mamepu akanyorwa, kuti akanga ataura kwenguva refu humwe usiku mutende reAfghan naBin Laden, vaviri vacho vachisvuta mapoppies, uye kuti chirongwa chepakutanga chaBin Laden chakanga chisiri chokudzikisa Twin Towers, asi kunyura Manhattan yose, uye kuti chaizvoizvo, uye mutyairi wetekisi ainyatsoziva izvi, kunze kwokuti chaiva chakavanzika kuti aifanira kurinda nokushingaira, Bin Laden akazviwana akaora mwoyo nokuti magandanga chete akawisira pasi Twin Towers, asi. kwete muvhimi pachitsuwa cheManhattan).

Wese muArgentina muporofita, hypnotist, muoni, munhu akavhenekerwa. Wese muArgentina anoziva. Anonaka uye anoziva zvese. Anoziva kupfuura chero ani zvake, anoziva kupfuura iwe neni uye chero dhongi rembongoro. Wese muArgentina adzoka, anotonhorera, ane macanudo, ane zvese zvinonzwika. Wese muArgentina ane mhinduro kune chero yemibvunzo inogona kubvunzwa kwaari, kunyangwe kana asinganzwisisi mubvunzo uye kana, pakuupindura, haatombonzwisisi zvaari kutaura. Asi pindura. Akagutsurira musoro. Kutaura. chirevo. Anoiridza. Unganidza timu. Raira nyika. Tonga nyika. Kunda hondo. Gurai zvakanaka kubva kune zvakaipa, zvakanaka kubva kune "mafuta."

Uye yega yega yeArgentina inotaura uye hurukuro uye hairegi kutaura. Uye hazvina basa kana zvaanotaura zvine musoro zvachose (nekuti munguva pfupi munhu anoona kuti zvese zviri mudzinza iroro hazvina musoro uye kuti chiperengo cheArgentina senyika chiri muchokwadi chekuti hapana chinogona kutsanangurwa zvine musoro uye , zvisinei, zvese zvinonakidza uye zvinonakidza uye ndiko kwaungada kugara kusvika kumagumo enguva, pasina kufinhwa kwezuva rimwe chete zvishoma), chakakosha ndechekuti haaregi kutaura uye ane maonero nezve zvese uye iwowo anosimbisa, zvirevo zvekupedzisira, pasina zvibvumirano, atrabiliary, hupombwe (zvichida muvhareji weArgentina angada kutaura akasununguka sezvakaita Maradona wekupedzisira mumazuva ake ekubwinya uye kubwinya), pfungwa umo mumaminitsi mashomanana anoisa nyika. muhurongwa, uye pakarepo anokutumira "kuyamwa" nekuzvikudza, kuzvidza chiito, uye ipapo anosvika kumba uye kwakachena mhirizhonga, uye mukadzi anomuudza kuti aende kugehena, uye ipapo chete muArgentina anovhara, kana chimwe chinhu. .

Asi mumugwagwa haavhare, chii chiri kuitika, chii chinoitika: mumatekisi, mumakofi, mumabhawa, mumabhazi, mumisika ine zana muzana inflation, mune mamwe makona asina kuvharwa epakati, muArgentina anotaura uye anotaura uye anogara akagadzirira kutaura, kupa maonero ake, kutora mativi, kutendeuka, kuva bilious, hasha, chido, chiItaly, chiSpanish, chiGalician, chiCanarian, kutsamwa, kudanidzira uye kukakavara chero munhu, nokuti vazhinji vanotaura. pasina munhu anovateerera kana kuvateerera, uye ndizvo chaizvo zvinofadza muvhareji weArgentina: kuti haaregi kutaura uye ane maonero akakwana uye anopokana nezve zvese zvehumwari nevanhu, uye hapana chinomufadza zvakanyanya, mupfumi kana murombo murume. kana puto, simbe kana kushanda, anogara munzvimbo ipi neipi muguta, odha empanadas, pizzas, waini, sangria, doro, fernet, (asi, pamusoro pezvose, empanadas uye pizzas), uye tanga kutaura pamusoro pechinhu chipi nechipi uye kupedza maawa akawanda achitaura. uye kutaura (dzimwe nguva kupopota), akanzwa kubatidza zvinhu zvisingarambikike, kugadzirisa matambudziko ese, kugadzirisa zvisizvo, kutsemura madhiragoni uye kufambisa zvinoreva nyonganyonga yenyika ino nesimba rekutaura rine ruzha uye rinotyisa rinounza pamwechete maArgentina, hafu yeItaly, hafu yeSpanish, muShongwe huru yeBhabheri mune iyo. mumwe nomumwe anotaura rurimi rumwe chete, asi hapana anonzwisisa, uye hapana anogona kunzwa.

Hapana anonzwisisa mumwe nemumwe, hapana anogona kunzwa, nekuti mumwe nemumwe anonzwa ari mhedziso muridzi wechikonzero uye haaite seanopokana neimwe nzira kuita chibvumirano kana kupa sendi rechikonzero kune mumwe, kune anopindirana, kune anopokana. Saka muArgentina ari, kubudikidza nechiremera chemajini, nekufashaidzwa kweropa, muparidzi, mutauri akashata, mugadziri wengano dzakaita senzizi, mutauri wengano, uye, pamusoro pezvose, muvengi wekuona wekunyarara nekuyananisa. Kunyange zvazvo achida kutaura, kunyange kana pasina munhu anomuteerera (anofanira kungonzwa inzwi rinotapira uye mumhanzi wezwi rake rakachenjera uye rine mutsa), anogara achida kukakavara nemumwe, uye kana zvichibvira kudanidzira, obva aenda. kune hits uye ubate pamapineapple. Pakarepo anonyengetedza kana kunyengetedza boka revatauri vanofambira, uye mativi maviri anorwisana anorongwa nezvombo zvichena zvinopenya murima remwedzi unotyisa uzere usiku uye, vatogadzirira kuuraya nokufa, varongi vanobva kuBuenos Aires vanovhara mugwagwa ndokupinda. kurwisana. mukupopotedzana kunotyisa pamusoro pechimwe chinhu chine chido (kazhinji chido chine chokuita nenhabvu, zvematongerwe enyika kana rudado rwenyika, zviratidzo zvitatu zvechirwere chimwe chete, chirwere chisingarapiki chokuva Argentine).

Ipapo muArgentina, atove akabatanidzwa mukurova nemumwe, uye asingayeuki kuti sei gehena ravakatanga kurwisana pakutanga, rinoratidza (kuisa upenyu hwake pangozi) kuti ane chimwe chinhu mumajeni ake anopenga uye ehitrionic izvo isu tose maLatin America tinoita. vasina, vakaderera zvakanyanya maererano navo: kutenda kweupofu mumaonero avo (kunyangwe iwe usingazivi zvauchataura uye uzviwanire kuvandudza pakati penzira inotenderera) uye ushingi hwekufira mumugwagwa. bongozozo, kudzivirira pfungwa idzodzo dzaunoda kupa hupenyu hwake, dzakatsikwa nebhiza remapurisa rinozoita tsvina pachitunha chake chegamba.