Tsiku linayamba ku likulu lokha, ngakhale kuti kale ndikumva kuti nthawi yophukira ili pazipata, ndiye chifukwa chake pamafunika khama lalikulu kuti tidziwonetse tokha pamphepete mwa nyanja, kuwotcha kwa dzuwa, kuvala malingaliro omwe okonza samabweretsa chachiwiri ichi. tsiku la mwambo wamasewera a mafashoni ku Madrid a Mercedes Benz Fashion Week mu pavilion 14 pabwalo la Ifema. Timavomereza kwambiri kuyamikira mafashoni a m'dzinja ndi nthawi yachisanu kuposa zovala zosambira ndi madiresi amadzimadzi. Komabe, catwalk ndi chaka patsogolo ndipo tsopano akutipatsa ife nkhani za masika-chilimwe cha 2023. Kodi mumandikhulupirira bwanji!, Kodi Don Quixote anganene chiyani kwa squire wake wokhulupirika.
Koma monga mkati mwa catwalk mulibe usana kapena usiku, kapena nyengo yozizira kapena chilimwe, pali malingaliro abwino operekedwa ndi opanga athu abwino kwambiri, timalola kuti titsogoleredwe ndi dzanja la Dolorés Cortes kupita ku magombe omwe adamuwona akukula, gombe la Levantine. . Kulimbikitsidwa ndi zojambulajambula za Bauhaus, makamaka 'zojambula zansalu' za wojambula Anni Albers, zosonkhanitsira zamitundu yowoneka bwino, kuphatikiza zakuda ndi zoyera komanso makoko opangidwa ndi manja ambiri.
Wopangayo amadziwa bwino ntchito yosambira ndipo wawonetsa izi ndi malingaliro ake okongola. "Zosonkhanitsazo zili ndi zosambira, ma bikini ndi ma triquini mofanana, ngakhale zovala zosambira zimakhala zochititsa chidwi kwambiri pamtunda, zimakhala zokongola kwambiri," mlengi wathu adavomereza mphindi zisanachitike. "Ndikufuna kuti zipinda zosambira ziwonekere, sindikufuna kuzibisa - akuwonjezera-, ngakhale ndimaziphatikiza ndi zonse zomwe timagulitsa, monga ma kaftans, madiresi, ndipo, panthawiyi, mipango" . Panty-thong, yomwe chaka chino yatenga malo osambira ndi magombe, ikupitilira chaka chomwe chikubwera. Zovala ndi chitsanzo chopindika zimatiwonetsa kuti mafashoni ake ndi a matupi onse.
Chinachake chomwe kampaniyi imayika nthawi zonse pamabwalo ndi ma bikini a crochet, ngakhale, monga momwe amafotokozera, amapangidwa mumisonkhano yathu mwachikhalidwe kwambiri ndi ulusi wa lycra, womwe suli wolemetsa komanso umagwirizana bwino ndi silhouette yaakazi. Zokongola kwenikweni.
Pitirizani
Belén Esteban, mu zikopa za Dolores Cortés De San Bernardo
Zikuganiziridwa kuti parade yoyamba ya m'mawa ikachitika, 'mzere wakutsogolo' (mzere woyamba wa alendo) umakhala wopanda mzimu wa nkhope zodziwika bwino, monga momwe zinalili, kupatula Belén Esteban, koma akadali odziwika bwino. pang'ono mdima.
Ngakhale kuti ndandanda ya okonza kuti tiyenera parade mu kope ili pa Ifema ndi zambiri decaffeinated kuposa makope akale, ndi kulibe kwambiri, tinaona nkhope zodziwika bwino dzulo. Ndikuyembekeza kuti lero abwereranso ndipo tikukhala tsiku ngati lapitalo, ndi Cibelespacio (chiwerengero cha chilengedwe cha chiwonetsero cha mafashoni chomwe chimakhala ndi maimidwe odzikongoletsera, magazini ndi okonza omwe akubwera) ndi mlengalenga, omvera ambiri mumayendedwe onani ma parade ndi mlengalenga mu 'backstage'. Catwalk iyi imafunikira malo a fresco, koma pali matenda omwe amawapangitsa kuti azitha kusindikiza pambuyo pake. Ganizirani khama lochokera ku Madrid es Moda kuti ziwonetsero zizichitika m'malo ophiphiritsira amzindawu, zomwe City Council ndi Community of Madrid zikuthandizira, pali zambiri zoti zichitike kuti Madrid Fashion Week ikhale ndi malo othokoza. ndiwe m'gulu labwino kwambiri padziko lapansi.
isabel sanchis
Ndi nthawi ya Isabel Sanchís, yemwenso waku Valencia, yemwe, pamodzi ndi mwana wake wamkazi Paula, akupereka chopereka chake chachisanu ku Madrid. Ndipo vulven wasonyeza kuti amadziwa kupanga pritas kwambiri chachikazi ndi augments. Lingaliro lawo ndikupangitsa kuti mphotho zizikhala pafupi ndi haute couture kuposa prêt-à-porter, mphotho zomwe zimapitilira mu zovala za zovala nyengo ndi nyengo. Ndi kusintha kwa malingaliro omwe tiyenera kuyamba kuchita zambiri, kwa chilengedwe komanso thumba. Koma pali malingaliro okonzeka kuvala pakati pa madiresi owoneka bwino a phwando. Maburashi ake omwe, monga amatiululira kumbuyo, "akugulitsa, ndipo ndimakonda kuwachita". Monga momwe amatiululira kuti msika wawo wapadziko lonse ukukula, makamaka ku America ndi Asia.
Ndi zizindikiro zake zomwe zilipo, maluwa ndi mavoliyumu, kusoka kwa satin ndi zokongoletsera zamtundu anali protagonist, koma osasiya kupanga ndi kuyambitsa pritas zopangidwa ndi laser-cut neoprene kapena pleated liquid satin. Zokongola siziyenera kutsutsana ndi kupita patsogolo.
Hannibal Laguna
Ndipo kuyambira madiresi achifumu mpaka madiresi a nthano ngati omwe Hannibal Laguna wapereka. Pali zosonkhanitsira zamphamvu zomwe zikuwonetsa 'Kuwala kwa Spring', kubadwanso kwa masika. Ine ndikuyembekeza inu munakhala mu mphukira wanu wobiriwira kuti ulendo ife ndi madiresi mu aliyense tsiku ndi tsiku. Kuphatikiza madiresi achikondi ndi ena omwe ali osavuta maonekedwe koma okongoletsedwa ndi ma volumes.
Chilimbikitso chake chachikulu cha kulenga chinali pa ma cuffs, m'chiuno, pomwe chingwe ndi chokongoletsera, ndi khosi lalikulu. Ikuwunikira ngati chizolowezi, chomwe chimapitilira chaka chatsopano, manja odzitukumula ndi masiketi. Zonse mu nsalu, zikanakhala bwanji mosiyana ndi silika iyi, silika wachilengedwe monga mikados, muslin, crepe ndi organza.
Ma silhouette a bulbous, ma bustiers, malaya a tulle, masiketi otambalala kwambiri okhala ndi zotseguka komanso madiresi owoneka bwino adapangitsa kuti anthu ambiri asangalale ndi chiwonetsero chamtunduwu komanso chokongola nthawi zonse.
Duarte
Kuchedwa kunayambitsa kusintha kwa kaundula, ngakhale kamvekedwe ka mlengalenga pang'ono, kunja ndi mkati mwa catwalk. Kuchokera pamaphwando apamwamba kwambiri achikazi, timapita ku gulu la 'ngozi' lopangidwa ndi wojambula Carlos Duarte. Zosonkhanitsira amuna ndi akazi, m'magawo ofanana, momwe mwamuna waku Madrid adafuna kuti aswe ndi zolemba zake zam'mbuyomu zosoka zapamwamba.
Zosonkhanitsa, m'mawu a wopanga, ndi ode to color, wouziridwa ndi zojambula za post-impressionist. Ma silhouette omasuka kwambiri kuposa m'mitundu yam'mbuyomu, ngakhale ndi voliyumu. Denim ndi nsalu zopangira nsalu ndi zoluka ndi silika muslin kwa madiresi, omwe, monga m'magazini yapitayi, abwereranso pa catwalk.
Alvaro Calafat
Tinkafuna kuwona mlengi wachinyamata wa Malaga Álvaro Calafat. Pambuyo pamitundu iwiri ku 080 ku Barcelona, iye akukwera pa siteji ya Madrid motsimikiza komanso popanda miyeso theka. Monga tidanenera zisanachitike: "Sakonda kusazindikirika. O, umandikonda kapena umandida. Ndabwera ndikufuna kupanga phokoso, kuti catwalk iyi idzuke, chifukwa ndakhala ndikuwonera ndipo ndikuganiza kuti ilibe mpweya wabwino, kudzuka, kuti yachita dzanzi”. Simungakhale olondola kwambiri.
Gulu lachitatu ili komanso loyamba ku MBFWM limatchedwa "3LeMorte" ndipo linabadwa pambuyo pa imfa ya bwenzi lapamtima. Zidutswa zake za kalembedwe kodziwika bwino, motengera ulendo wopita ku India komanso kuchita chidwi ndi akachisi ake. "Ndikufuna kuphunzira zomangamanga, ndikuyamba chaka choyamba - akutiuza moseketsa-, chifukwa chake kulimbikira kwanga m'magulu anga a zomangamanga za pritas. Ndipo ndicho kusinkhasinkha maganizo anga. Ndiko kumene amabadwira." Koma poganizira zomanga izi, panali malingaliro okhudzika kwambiri.
Theresa Helbig
Phwando lomaliza lisanachitike pomwe Agatha Ruiz de la Prada osatopa amamufunsa nthawi zonse kuti azitsatira ndipo pamwambowu amatseka kope, takhala ndi chisangalalo choganiziranso zomwe adapanga komanso mphunzitsi Teresa Helbig. Phunziro latsopano la momwe mafashoni okhazikika alili, omwe m'makutu mwake sakhala othamanga masiku ano, iwo ndi pritas kwa moyo wonse. Ndipo akazi okongola kwambiri m'dziko lino amavala 'helbig', ndipo ngati alibe, sali mumsanja wa zokongola kwambiri.
Zovala zamtengo wapatali monga momwe amawakondera: zangwiro. Simudzawona ulusi wopota. “Amayi anga, amene ndinaphunzira nawo ntchito imeneyi, amavomereza,” iye amathirira ndemanga nthaŵi zonse. Zosakhazikika, zosangalatsa, zikondwerero, ndi momwe iye alili ndipo ndi momwe kusonkhanitsa kwake kulili, komwe kumapereka ulemu kwa ziwerengero zazikulu za nyimbo. Ndipo ndibwino bwanji munjira yopita ku zikondwerero kuposa kukhala ndi Luz Casal mwa omvera
Chikopa, thonje lace, yopyapyala silika ndi golide trim. Zowonetsa zathu imodzi mwazovala zake, kumbuyo kwa siteji, zomwe akuti "ndi msonkho wanga kwa Paco Rabanne". Ma polychromy amalingaliro ake amachokera ku ngamila, mpaka yoyera yosweka, mpaka poppy wofiira, buluu wamagetsi, jet wakuda ndi golide. M'maulendo 34, onse opezeka ndi nsapato zazitali za "dziko", adasangalatsa anthu omwe adadzaza m'njira. Izi zinati, zosangalatsa.
Monga zokongoletsa, nthenga ndi 'zikopa' zazikulu, zomwe kwa wopanga ndi mawindo otseguka padziko lonse lapansi.
